Monthly PART I: Weeds, weeds, and more weeds!

How often have you looked at a plant sprouting in your flowerbed and said to yourself, “Is that a weed?” I’ve even taken it a step further and tried the ‘wait and see’ technique where you let it grow only to determine later that it is indeed a weed, which has now taken over your flowerbed. In this issue, we are going to identify three ordinary weeds found in Ohio (specifically in MY yard!) and methods to attempt to control them. Next month, we will continue are discussion about common garden weeds. Get your trusty weeder, knee pad, and let’s dig into it!

Let’s start with the weed even little children can identify, the common Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale) (see cover photo). In lawns and flowerbeds everywhere, you will often find these brightly colored yellow flowerheads, which turn into feathery globe-shaped seed pods. Dandelions are broadleaf perennials, which return every year like an unwelcome guest. Bees like dandelions, but this weed is not a preferred bee food.

When I lived in Cuyahoga Falls and had a postage stamp city lot, I was able to control lawn weeds by hand and with organic grass treatments, which contained bone and/or corn meal. After I moved to Brimfield, I wasn’t able to hand-weed a ½ acre lot and my grass had more weeds than blades of grass! I’m not trying to achieve golf course-like greens, but I also don’t want a field of weeds. So, reluctantly I turned to herbicides to kill off the weeds. Of course, I do not use chemicals on or near the flowerbeds, berry bushes, veggies or herb gardens. If you are not opposed to chemical herbicides, you can treat your lawn with one of many products on the market.

To help prevent weeds in your lawn, keep the grass dense and healthy, mow 2”-3 1/2” high, seed all bare spots to avoid more weeds, aerate soil, and leave grass clippings where they fall. However, for this blog, we are going to focus on weeds in your flower and vegetable beds instead of our lawns.

Did you know that the seeds from a single dandelion can propagate your entire yard with dandelions? Dandelion taproots can be 10” long! I know you want to hear a better solution, but I find digging them out by hand works best. Make sure you get the whole root and remove them before they go to seed. It’s always easier to dig up weeds when the ground is damp. If you decide to use chemical sprays, remember they are expensive, dangerous to you and the environment, and often are not a permanent fix. Sadly, due to the overuse of herbicides, dandelions have evolved, adapted, and created deeper and stronger roots,

Next up is my personal weed nemesis Ground Ivy (Glechoma hederacea L,) commonly called Creeping Charlie. Ground Ivy is an aggressive and invasive broadleaf weed that is widespread in Ohio. This low-growing weed spreads rapidly in shady areas with damp soil. It thrives from March through June (although I see it all year around). It is easy to identify with its minty smell, scalloped leaves, and funnel-shaped purple flowers.

Personally, I tackle these vines by hand, but they grow so quickly it’s almost impossible to pull out all the roots. Therefore, most people turn to systemic herbicides like glyphosate to kill them; however, I found chemical didn’t defeat “Charlie” from growing in my yard. Not surprising, Ground Ivy is part of the Mint family (Lamiaceae).

Weed scientists are experimenting with a rust fungus Puccinia glechomatis to kill off the Ground Ivy. This would be a safer product than a regular herbicide.

For a large heavily infested area, you can try a weed mat, tarp, newspaper or cardboard to block the sunlight for several weeks. Afterward, pull out all the dead plants and start over again. You can compost weeds, but be sure the temperatures are high enough to kill off the seed pods and roots.

Ground Ivy is toxic to some vertebrates, including horses. Farmers have to be cautious not to get too much in the hay feed. However, it is edible for humans. In fact, prior to using hops, in England they used Ground Ivy to preserve beer. For its peppery flavor, some people use it in salads, soups, and teas. If you need some, come over to my house and pull out as much as you want!

For weed number three (but in no particular order), let me introduce you to Canada Thistle (Cirsium arvense). Canada Thistle is another aggressive perennial weed with creeping roots that thrives just about anywhere. It grows throughout summer into early fall over a two-year life cycle. Again, dig them out before they produce pink/lavender flowerheads, which will go to seed. If you leave any part of the root in the ground, it will quickly regrow. Notably, the leaves are lobed, covered with fine hairs and a prickly spine, and a soft underside.

One Canada thistle stem can product 700 seeds, which are distributed by wind and birds. They can grow 3’-5’ tall. Seriously, they seem to grow inches overnight. For every weed I dig up, two more grow in its place. This is due to the deep underground rhizome colony, which can grow 12’ per year. That’s one prolific weed – I wish my tomatoes were that productive!

My best advice is to dig it out fast and early in the spring before it gets out of control and KEEP digging up any new starters. Other gardeners prefer to mow or cut them back at the soil line. Please don’t blame our Canadian neighbors because interestingly, Canada Thistle is not from Canada. In fact, it’s been frustrating American gardeners since the Revolutionary War!

GENERAL WEEDING ADVICE & TOOLS

Some general advice for controlling weeds in your garden, is to apply 3” of mulch (wood or bark), use landscape fabric, polyethylene (plastic tarp) or newspaper under the mulch. This helps control the growth of weed seedlings by reducing the light to the soil.

In regard to garden tools, there are almost as many weeding tool options available as there are types of weeds! Usually, I use my mom’s old traditional 10” hand weeder with a fork-like tip. These are still sold and the design hasn’t changed much in 80-years. I also have my grandma’s ancient long-handled hoe, which functions well in-between narrow rows of vegetables or flowers. I like to use my small hand rake or claw for creeping vines.

For weeding by hand (on your hands and knees), some gardeners like to weed with a landscaping/weeding knife. Others prefer a Japanese Weeding Sickle (called a Nejiri Kama), which has a 4" forged razor-sharp blade. The Fiskars Ergo Weeder is designed for wrist comfort and durability. It’s made out of cast-aluminum so it resists rust and won’t easily break while weeding.

If you can’t kneel and need to weed standing, besides a traditional hoe, try a long-handled stirrup hoe (also called a scuffle hoe). For large areas, a sickle will knock down that first layer of high weeds.

Whether weeding while standing or kneeling, select a weeding tool that is comfortable for your hands, wrists, and the correct length for your height. If kneeling, don’t forget a sturdy knee pad.

Since this subject is so overwhelming (not to mention back-breaking!), we will continue our weed conversation next month. In “Weeds Part II” we’ll discuss Crabgrass (Digitaria spp.), Shepherd’s purse (Capsella burse-pastoris), and Chickweed (Stellaria sp. & Cerastium spp.).